This sounds easy enough but is often overlooked. Next, if the noise is pressure related, it will change when the pressure changes. The following is a list of components that commonly make noise, and simple methods of diagnosing them:.
Pump noises are simple. They change when pressure changes. Take, for example, a 4TE that has a noise whether it is in or out of gear. Because of this the torque converter can be ruled out. Putting the transmission in gear stops the entire gear train from turning.
This rules out the entire gear train. At this point, the only suspect is the pump or some other hydraulic component such as the pressure-regulator valve. The test here is to vary line pressure by changing the vacuum at the modulator. If the noise varies with a change in pressure, its time to look at the pump including the pump drive shaft. With a 4LE, disconnecting the solenoid wire harness will work.
A restricted filter can also cause pump noises. The best way to check this is with a pressure gauge. Address this as soon as possible to prevent prematurely wearing out the friction material in the transmission. Slippage can also occur if the converter clutch fails to engage fully, leaving only the fluid-coupling effect, which is inherently inefficient. Another symptom of lowered pressure output from the converter is a tendency to have soft, or delayed shifts.
You will lose the nice, crisp feeling of the transmission shifting and engaging properly. You may find that increasing the output pressure from the converter by raising the engine rpm a bit will help the transmission shift into gear, and also to engage when starting from a stop. Inconsistent output from the torque converter can cause the transmission to increase and decrease the vehicle speed with no concurrent change in throttle as the hydraulic pressure varies.
After reading this article, you will know the various parts of the torque converter, the symptoms of a bad torque converter, and how to fix torque converter problems yourself. You will be able to tell a bad torque converter vs bad transmission. Stator : The stator is the reel conductor of the torque converter.
It is the brain of the torque converter. The fluid move through the converter with the help of a one-way clutch inside the converter. Impeller pump : The impeller pump should be one thing to inspect first when working on an industrial torque converter. The torque converter uses an impeller pump similar to a centrifugal pump. The impeller pump, just Like the centrifugal pump, is designed to circulate fluid in a rotating pattern. Fluids enter through the middle of the pump by the vacuum generated by the impeller pump and circulate it through the converters outside the wall, where it expels the fluid.
Clutch : The clutch is used to lockup the transmission in high gears, preventing it from slipping. The clutch is usually found in the modern clutch converter. They are typically called friction clutch. The transmission fluid : The transmission fluid is not a part of the torque converter, but it plays a significant role by providing hydraulic coupling, excellent starts, and prevents the engine from stalling when you disengage the gears.
Since the torque converter is a self-contained unit, you can rebuild or replace it as a single unit. Read Also: Manual vs. Automatic Transmissions: Which is Better? Issues with a failing or lousy torque converter are often misinterpreted as transmission problems. As a result, car owners will wind up spending thousands of dollars replacing or rebuilding their transmission.
They might not know that the issues lie within their torque converter, which is lesser than the transmission itself. If the torque converter goes bad, the vehicle engine is required to do more jobs to sustain the same engine speed. The engine will require more revolutions to operate per minute, which will reduce fuel economy and fluid pressure. In the worst scenario, the system will create more heat which could cause issues to other components.
This is mostly a result of lowered pressure output. Instead of having a nice and crisp transmission shift, you will experience a rough and abnormal gear shift. The best way to get that crisp and nice gear is to increase the torque converter output pressure by increasing the engine RPM. If you have inconsistent torque converter output pressure, it could result in a sudden increase or decrease of the vehicle speed by the torque converter.
At that moment, the throttle will start malfunctioning because there will be varying fluid pressure. If your car vibrates or shakes while driving 30 mph to 45 mph, chances are you have problems with your torque converter. The shuddering feeling will not be a consistent thing.
It usually happens and goes away suddenly. You should call your mechanic to inspect your transmission once you notice it the first time. You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Thread starter anderaa13 Start date Oct 22, Watchers 2.
Well, I think I may have found it. I bought a stethescope today and it seems like the noise is coming from the torque converter area, as someone suggested. I can also hear it from the back of the oil pan, but that would be expected. The noise is an irregular metallic rattling audible under light throttle only. It doesn't occur at idle, but I can hear it if I brake torque it. Does anyone have any suggestions for further diagnosis.
It seems to be functioning properly and I have never heard of this on an Click to expand Joined Aug 8, Messages 9, How are you listening to it with a stethescope under light throttle and braking? With the engine sitting at idle and you laying under it, the dynamics of the torque converter are completely different, so the sound you may be hearing from the back of the oil pan could be simple engine sounds. Give some more details on the original rattle as best you can. Joined Mar 27, Messages 1, Sounds familiar.
Pull off the inspection cover and check out the flex plate and torque convertor. It is definitely noticible from the torque converter area.
See the rebuild thread. Mine made the noise all the time, but perhaps it started just under light throttle. I don't know. On my '93 there is a mount on the USA passenger's side of the bellhousing that holds one of the exhaust pipes.
Maybe that's a little loose. Check the flex plate and torque convertor bolts.
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