Post a Comment. Last year my friend Sunny introduced me to countersteer drifting, but it wasn't until recently that I decided to give it a real try. With a countersteer setup the chassis' rear wheels spin faster than the front wheels, which transforms its handling characteristics to those of a rear-wheel-drive car.
This allows for more countersteer to be applied while drifting. To achieve this effect, a smaller diff pulley and larger center pulley is installed for the rear belt, and vice versa for the front belt. So far I've only changed the pulleys for the rear belt:. Again, it depends. In my opinion, unless your set for countersteer, 3 degrees is enough. A lot of guys use 3 degrees front and rear, which is typical on yokomos.
My TB03 has 1 in the front and 2 in the rear, and my TT01 runs 0 camber all the way around it weight shifts a lot. So test it out and figure out what suits you the best. Remember that more camber increases traction in a turn and less camber decreases traction. So even though you have cambered wheels, the initial contact of the tires will be completely covering the ground as if you were running 0 camber. So watch your tire wear and replace the wheels if needed.
Rims…we love them cause they make our chassis look good. But believe it or not, rims can affect how the car drifts. The offset of the rim is basically how much the lip of the rim sticks out from the face. Offset is measured in millimeters. Common offsets are 0,3,6, and 9mm. Rims from speedway pal in Japan sometime come in offsets greater than 10 mm. The larger the body width, the bigger offset rim you can use.
Most tamiya and yok bodies can only use up to 6mm. Of course, if you add a little camber, you can probably use a bigger offset. Also, look at the body and the shape. My TB03 has 1 in the front and 2 in the rear, and my TT01 runs 0 camber all the way around it weight shifts a lot.
So test it out and figure out what suits you the best. Remember that more camber increases traction in a turn and less camber decreases traction. So even though you have cambered wheels, the initial contact of the tires will be completely covering the ground as if you were running 0 camber.
So watch your tire wear and replace the wheels if needed. Camber is achieved by shortening the suspension upper arms on your chassis by turning the turnbuckle. What camber does is help create more contact between the tire and road when turning. When you drift there are several forces acting on the car. The result is that when you go hard into a turn and slide, weight shifts towards the outside of the turn laterally again, watered down physics lesson. See below.
So with camber, you can see that your initial contact patch with the ground is minimal when standing still. But in the middle of a turn, the car leans, and the contact patch increases. This gives the leaning side a little more traction and grip which is important when you are exiting the turn, or trying to pull in on a clipping point. Tire wear depends on how you drive, the setup of your chassis, and the surface. Obviously, a chassis with a big aggressive motor is going to eat up tires on asphalt, while cambering your wheels will create inside tire wear.
For the most part, your tires will last several months depending on how often you drift. You can also rotate your tires every now and then to even the tire wear out. HPI T-drifts smooth and Tamiya driftechs are pretty much your all weather, all surface tire. Plus, they are easy to find. Yokomo rings usually do better on smooth slick surfaces like polished concrete, while something like PVC Sushi piping is a little more difficult on asphalt, but works better on carpet. Which ever tire you use, consider the surface that you drift on the most.
Note, that at a lot of RC drift comps, there usually is a tire restriction. Although keep in mind that depending on how fast your brushless motor is, it can drain a nimh pretty fast. Lipos are rated in mAh , , , etc.. The higher the number, the higher the capacity, and the longer the run time depending on motor size. Also, lipos can be 2 cell or 3 cell 2S or 3S.
Note that IMO, a 3S lipo is a bit much for drifting. This is how fast the battery can be discharged safely. The higher the C rating 10C, 15C, 20C, etc , the faster the battery will discharge. Unlike dogbones, the outer drive cups are connected to the dogbone on a CVD unit. This prevents the dogbone from slipping out especially in the front when turning and provides a better transfer of power from the differential to the wheels.
The only drawback it that the nut holding the drive cup to the dogbone can come loose, shredding your wheel hub. So be sure to add a little thread lock to keep it in.
Without getting too technical, since the rotation of the drive shaft is perpendicular to the wheels of the car, the rotational force torque delivered from the motor has to change direction several times before it gets to the wheels. If you have a shaft driven car, set it down and floor it without steering. Belt driven cars do not suffer from this because the drivetrain is inline with the wheels. The pulleys are parallel with the wheels and motor rotation.
Torque is delivered evenly and in the same direction front to back , and only needs to change direction once at the pinion and spur. Toe will help stabilize your car in a straight line. Generally RC kits come setup with rear toe in to help with straight line acceleration. More rear toe will stabilize the car, but increase tire wear.
Less rear toe will make it more tail happy. Its a little bit different for the front toe. Running toe-in will again help with stability in straight line, but you lose turn-in capability less turning angle, on the tire closest to the corner , and also lessens the ackerman angle. Toe-out will add stability and increase the turn-in, but increases ackerman angle.
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